Writer na nchoputa Heinrich Harrer: biography, ọrụ, akwụkwọ kasị mma, na-akpali eziokwu

Ndụ ya na ya ọtụtụ akwụkwọ inyocha si n'ọnọdụ nke otu nke Nazi party, na-eme a ọgwụgwụ na ebumnobi ike nke egwuregwu na agụmakwụkwọ rụzuru. Heinrich Harrer mgbe niile na-ewere ya na ọnụnọ na ideological na agha onye fasizim nzukọ na ịsụ na n'ụzọ zuru ezu adịghị, ọ bụ ezie na ọ gbalịrị bụghị igosi ya. Ọ bụrụ na ị na-itinye ihe mkpa na ndọrọ ndọrọ ọchịchị echiche Harrer, anyị nwere ike na-n'anya na mkpebi siri na obi ike a ma ama mountaineer na njem.

mmalite afọ

A mụrụ ya na 1912 na obere Austrian obodo Obergossene, n'ezinụlọ nke a nzi ozi ọrụ Yozefa Harrera na nwunye ya Johanna. Na 1927 ha kwagara Graz, ebe Heinrich Harrer gụsịrị akwụkwọ n'ụlọ akwụkwọ dị elu ma banye University of Karl Franz. Site 1933 na 1938, o na-amụ ọdịdị ala na mmụta mmega ahụ n'otu oge ahụ na-arụsi ugwu na ski.

Ọ bụ a nwa akwukwo isonye na Winter Olympic Games 1936, ẹkenịmde ke Germany. Ma Austria boycotted ya n'ihi chargeability andikpep ke Alpine ski ka ọkachamara na barring ha si Olympic mkpọda. Na 1937, Heinrich Harrer merie ndị downhill mpi, gụnyere usoro ihe omume nke World Student Games, ma na-a ezi ahuhu maka arịgo ya.

North Face nke Eiger

Site na njedebe nke na mahadum N'ezie na akaụntụ Harrer nwere ọtụtụ rịa ugwu ndị kasị elu udi nke mgbagwoju. Na 1938, ya na enyi ya na obodo Fritz Kasparek, Heinrich Harrer abịa mmeri nke kpara "Wall nke Ọnwụ" - ugwu iru nnukwu konkiri pyramid elu nke 3970 mita, nke mụtaara aha Eiger na Swiss Alps.

Nke a mgbidi nọgidere unclimbed ruo ogologo oge, ọ bụ ezie na ọtụtụ mgbalị na-ekwu ọtụtụ nke ndụ. Ụzọ gasị eme na Eiger ugwu na ihu, mgbagwoju anya geological Ọdịdị nke n'elu ihu igwe na gburugburu ebe obibi dị n'ógbè ahụ. N'elu larịị ọtụtụ snow, fọrọ nke nta kpamkpam kpuchie ice na nwere nkezi mkpọda nke 75 degrees, na n'ebe ụfọdụ na a na-ezighị ezi echiche ọjọọ.

The elu ugboro nke rockfalls na snow, agbanwe ngwa ngwa weather mere nrigo n'ebe ugwu ihu nke Eiger egwu. N'ihi ya, ndị ọchịchị na-emechi ná mkpọda maka climbers na ugwu rescuers jụrụ napụta ndị ahụ, ndị na ha onwe ha na nke a ụzọ.

July 24, 1938

Ugbua na mgbidi nke Austrians Kasparek na Harrer na a ùkwù na abụọ German climbers - Anderle Hekmayerom na Ludwig Vorgom na were ihe a pụrụ ịdabere na ngwá maka Itie nke ice n'elu. The nkwonkwo iji ịrị a ịga nke ọma, n'agbanyeghị na ụfọdụ disruptions mgbe a zoputara nani insurance, na ịlụ nnukwu, site na nke zọpụta naanị pụrụ ịdabere na ngwá, ndidi na ịnọgidesi. Heinrich Harrer, onye akwụkwọ na-emekarị na-akọwa ya dị iche iche na njem ndị mmadụ merela, gwara mesịrị banyere ihe a merenụ na akwụkwọ nchụàjà "The White Ududo" (1959).

Ịga nke ọma nke Austrian-German ìgwè nke climbers na mere nanị ọnwa atọ mgbe annexation nke Austria site Nazi Germany, Nazi okwu nduhie mere a nnọchianya nke ọcha ike ike iwu nke fasizim. Harrer ọnụ na ndị ọzọ Eiger mmeri natara ọtụtụ ukpono na kwuo, nakwa dị ka ihe na-ege ntị na Hitler na ndị ọzọ na Nazi isi.

Njem na Himalayas

Rịa etinyere egwuregwu, nke na Nazi Germany, e nyere pụrụ iche. Mmeri nke ọhụrụ vertices na-agafe unexplored ụzọ gasị Hitler mgbasa echiche hụrụ ihe atụ nke na-abịa ụwa nchịkwa nke Aryan Nation. Na nke a na ganging Hitler mmasị na omimi ozizi nke Shambhala - kpara mba bi supermen, nwere ihe ọmụma na-eme ka anwụ anwụ na ime ihe nile.

Dị ka akụkọ mgbe ochie, a obibi ndị mọnk ahụ dị n'etiti ugwu Himalaya ọnụ ọnụ, ikekwe na Tibet - omimi ala ahu, nke jisiri ike na-agụ site na mba ọzọ, na banyere nke na-enweghị ozi ziri ezi si Europe. Ya mere, maara nke ọtụtụ njem ndị mmadụ merela nke German climbers haziri inyocha ebe. Ọ na-amaghị ma nzube bụ search nke mythical Shambhala Himalaya njem na 1939, a akụkụ nke nke e gụnyere Harrer, ma nke ahụ bụ banyere ya na-ekwukarị na-eme nnyocha, ụtọ site na eziokwu na ndị a ma ama njem, ogologo zoro ezo ya Nazi gara aga.

Exploration ụzọ na Nanga Parbat

The ogologo njem, nke bịara ná njedebe na ndị kasị ama akwụkwọ nke ndị ahụ na-ede Heinrich Harrer - "afọ asaa Tibet", e iji na-akwadebe maka mmeri nke onye nke Himalaya ọnụ ọnụ - otu n'usoro nke Nanga Parbat, bụ nke dị n'ebe ugwu ọdịda anyanwụ nke Himalaya, na ihe ahụ British ógbè - India.

Mgbe a ụzọ ọhụrụ n'elu kwubara atọ na ọnụ ọgụgụ nke onwu na-agbalị imeri ya, German climbers n'elu ọdịda nke 1939 nọ Karachi, na-eche ụgbọ mmiri na-alaghachi Europe na a hụrụ. The ụgbọ mmiri e ejide gị. Na-adịghị anya mgbe ndị September 1 - na ụbọchị nke malitere World War II mgbe ntinye ya UK - September 3 - na ha na-iro n'ókèala na e jidere.

ịga nke ọma ụzọ mgbapụ

Anwaa ịgbapụ - otu na na iche iche - energetic Austrian mere site ná mmalite nke ya mkpọrọ. Mgbe ha na otu bụ na ihe omumu oru mara ụlọikwuu, dị na n'ebe di ala ala nke Himalaya, maka Harrer bịara doo anya mgbapụ uzo - site na ugwu gafee nke Tibet. Movement n'ógbè bụ ugwu ugwu nke ụwa, ọbụna n'ihi na a zụrụ azụ na-eme egwuregwu - adịghị mfe ọrụ na-achọ oké njọ nkwadebe, ịga nke ọma otú ahụ Harrer ọ bụghị mgbalị mbụ.

Mode nọ n'ogige ahụ, ebe o nyere iwu a mepere anya Bekee doro anya nnọọ iche n'ebe ndị iwu na Germany mere a nwụdere n'agha na Eastern Front. Ya mere, Harrer na ndị enyi ya nwere ezi ohere na juputara kwadebe ya ụzọ mgbapụ. Ma ọbụna mgbe ahụ, ruo n'ókè nke India na Tibet anyị ruru niile - ọtụtụ na-ahọrọ na-aga azụ ụlọikwuu ahụ. Na Lhasa - Tibet isi obodo - ọnụ na Harrer bụ naanị Peter Aufschnaiter, nke a na-kwuru na autobiography, bụ nke e dere site na Heinrich Harrer.

"7 Afọ na Tibet"

Akwụkwọ mere Austrian njem a ma ama, na ọ nwere otutu nke ozi banyere mba ahụ, ebe ohere mba ọzọ A machibidoro iwu. E a amụma nke otu n'ime ndị amamihe, dị ka nke Tibet efu onwe ya mgbe ọ na a ga-enwe ndị mba ọzọ. Ya mere, ibido Harrer na enyi ya chere na mmegide nke niile Tibet - na mfe ọzụzụ atụrụ na magburu onwe isi.

Ọ gbanwere ọtụtụ ụzọ n'ihi mgbanwe ndị na onwe ha na-agụ akụkọ - siri ike gbakee na akwa ụzọ ụkwụ, nzukọ pụrụ iche na ụzọ ndụ nke Tibet, maruuru okpukpe ha na-agọnahụ ike megide ihe ọ bụla dị ndụ e kere eke, na-ekpe mba Chọpụta na mkpụrụ obi nke mmadụ, ọbụna na mbụ kewapụrụ mpako Nazi echiche.

Iri na anọ Dalai Lama

Tenzin Gyatso - ndụ n'onwe nke Buddha, ndị ndú ime mmụọ na nke Tibet, ihe ịmata nwa okorobịa na-chọrọ ịmụta ihe banyere ụwa, emi odude ọtụtụ puku kilomita site n'ala nna ya - ọzọ dike nke akwụkwọ. Heinrich Harrer na Dalai Lama, matara banyere na 1940, na-akwado iwebata Harrer ruo ọnwụ ya na 2006, na-agbasi mgba ike ibe mmetụta ọ bụla ọzọ. Ọ bụ site Austrian, okenye site afọ 26, na-Dalai Lama mụtara ọtụtụ ihe banyere European omenala, na nkà mmụta sayensị na teknuzu rụzuru nke modernity.

Nke a emeela ka ebubo Tibetan Buddha si Chinese ọchịchị, mgbu mkpa ajụjụ nke Tibet onwe, mmekọahụ Nazi. N'aka nke ọzọ, oké ikike nke Dalai Lama na ụwa na ndọrọ ndọrọ ọchịchị, nke, n'agbanyeghị na nkwa nke oge ochie okpukpe ozizi, bụ nwoke atọsa si mmepeanya ọgbara ọhụrụ, na-esite a udo nke abụọ eto eto bụ ndị (karịsịa ikpe ikpe site film na 1994), ígwè ezi ndị enyi.

Na ndabere nke ihe ndị a na-kere ya bestseller Heinrich Harrer. "Afọ asaa Tibet" na shot-akwụkwọ na ya film na Brad Pitt na-eduzi ọrụ - mere aha ya a ma ama n'ụwa nile. Ọ bụ ezie na mgbe ya laghachiri n'ala nna ya na 1950, o mere ka a otutu rịa na a ala njem, aku na iche iche na-elekọta mmadụ na-eme, o bipụtara ihe karịrị 20 akwụkwọ. Harrer na-ekwukarị na ọ bụ na-egbuke egbuke peeji nke ndụ ya, na ebe ọ bụ Tibet ruo mgbe ebighị ebi ndidu n'obi ya.